This has taken three days to post. oh the joys of African internet

PEACE! peace in Northern Uganda. This first picture was taken this morning at Pagak IDP camp which I'll explain later.

Monday after calling home, I went to Gulu High School for a second time to give a presentation on our music contest to the Music, Dance, and Drama club. I first had to talk to the entire school of about 1200 students... outsite with a mic. They didn't understand my ice-breaking "Howdy!" and reference to country music (country music HAD been playing all week at Acholi Inn, so I thought I'd give it a shot...) nor did they know where Tennessee is or that it's in the United States. So... George came and gave me some help and I was able to get the message out that some of them need to stay after assembly for a special contest.



Whew. With the smaller group of about 100 things went much smoother and the kids are so excited to perform for us tomorrow. We're asking that they compose music dance or poetry with a peacebuilding theme in groups of 4-8 students. Winning groups get money, between $50 and $10.

That evening we got to know better an Oxford student named Joe who is British but grew up in Malawi. He's helping start up the Janani Luwum Institute of Development Studies. We went out to the historic hill in the Gulu district where the first Anglican missionaries set up camp.

Tuesday morning I met an inspiring woman named Alice Oryem-Akabo who is the headmistress of the Atanga Girls' Secondary School in Pader. This school has absolutely nothing and is in an area that is still unsecure, yet she chose to retire there after a position in the Ministry of Education in Kampala. I would really like to get the church to send care packages in the future. Invisible Children is helping rebuild the school next door but not Atanga, so they are going to be significantly disadvantaged. I have the address, and I'll get more information to Mom and Mark's Sunday School (since I know you all are reading this :) ) when I get back.

I finally got my dress from my two favorite seamstresses Filder and Nancy! I don't have a picture of the actual dress... it's a surprise!)



We then had my favorite meeting of the whole trip with an ex-rebel and pathologist professor at Gulu University named Okot Bwangamoi. After his 568 cattle were stolen by Museveni's soldiers in 1986, he joined the rebel Uganda People's Democratic Army (UPDA) and was soon promoted to Commander-in-Chief of the civilian forces. In 1988 he was forced into exile but now he is back in Gulu. To add to his incredible story, because he is an academic at heart, he kept intricate notes of his experiences in the bush and even carried around a camera taking photographs. He finished a book in 1988 of which he only has ONE COPY! only one. He took it with him to London when he was forced to leave the country and brought it back when he returned.



Wednesday morning he called George. And this man brought his photo album and his book to the Acholi Inn for our group to look at. I was so stunned. And so moved that he risked bringing it into public to share it with us. It's called "Professor's War: Civil War in Uganda, 1986-88." This book's account of the beginning stages of this 21 year war, the time before Alice Lakwena's "Holy Spirit Movement" and before Kony's LRA, explains a missing link in much of the scholarship done on Northern Uganda. Especially in America, so many people fighting to end this war don't understand its complexity or its many facets.

Also on Wednesday, Knoxville Jazz for Justice met two Archbishops. One Anglican (George's brother) and the other Catholic, John Baptist Odama. Here's a picture of Erin and I dancing with the Christ Church Luo Choir at the arrival celebration for the Anglican Archbishop.




us with Archbishop Odama

While meeting with Archbishop Odama, I learned of another angle of this conflict area that I had feared but never knew the actuality of. Apparently there is mounting Christian-Muslim tension, and with the North's close proximity to Sudan and the new discovery of oil deposits, one disagreement could cause the whole area to explode into disputes. A few weeks before we came there was already an argument between two groups of school children in Moyo over who should slay cattle and goats. It was between Muslim and Christian children, and many in the Ugandan community on both sides are now talking about it. Too many more instances like that and this could get very ugly.



Like so much of what I discuss in here, this blog is only reaching the surface of much of what I'm learning. Because of time, I can't go into the depth I would like to, but I know that my research paper in the fall will discuss much more in depth all of these issues.

Last night the KJfJ/University of Tennessee delegation took a break from all of our formal meetings and went to Hotel Pearl Afrique in hopes of some music. Unfortunately the rain stopped the musicians, but we met up with our friend Joe and his two friends, Carly and Nick. Carly was the Southern California roadie for Invisible Children this past year, and I was able to pick her brain about some of what IC is doing here. I think she got a little defensive, but I understand because Invisible Children has been getting so much criticism from both here and abroad. Ugandans in the diaspora especially don't like them or what they're doing in Northern Uganda. I am still learning about them and I hope to visit their headquarters before speaking my peace about them.

This morning we had an eye-opening visit to Pagak IDP camp as guests of the Norwegian Refugee Council. Our friend Patience works there and set up everything. On the way, we were in an SUV with volunteers from Gulu University who were very friendly. Once we got there, we were so shocked at what we found. This camp is said to have 7,000 occupants by the World Food Program, but in an interview with Ojara Atkinson, the secretary of Pagak, we learned they in fact have 14,693 people living there. According to Atkinson, the biggest challenge is land resettlment. Others include sanitation and education.



I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. While taking pictures, Dr. Hackett said something along the lines of, "The problem with these pictures is they feed into the stereotypes of how the West sees Africa." I completely agree. But I saw this camp with my own eyes and I couldn't believe the reality of the situation. To give Africa its credit, yes beautiful things are here. The people have some of the most resilient spirits I have ever seen. And they are beginning to be joyful again. But, there is no denying that this region is peacetalk phase of a 21 year long brutal war.















This afternoon after returning to Gulu, we went into MegaFM, the largest radio station in Northern Uganda, to see about going on air Saturday, and after telling the Programs Manager about our project, he put us on the air three minutes later. It was fantastic to not be on UT (Uganda Time) for once! The interview went beautifully, Josh and Dr. Hackett spoke so articulately.



We have done so much in such a short time!

Sending love from Gulu

(Women Education class at Aloklum IDP camp)

Saturday after updating on here, Erin and I got fitted for traditional dresses!! We spent 30 minutes picking out fabrics and designs, and I even tried on a model dress in the back room. When I came out, they laughed. It was an encouraging laugh though.

I finally settled on a sunflower pattern, and I can pick it up tomorrow. You can expect pictures as soon as I get it back. For the shirt and blouse, it's only 30,000 shillings, or 20 US dollars. Not bad. Erin and I are going to wear them to the next Knoxville Jazz for Justice concert!

That night, the group we're trying to sponsor to bring to the States for a tour, Acholi Heart Beat, came to the Acholi Inn to perform for us. THEY WERE INCREDIBLE!! the whole time they danced and played their instruments I kept thinking, "they have to come to UT!" It was great because they're all around our age and they're being given an opportunity to live their dreams. Some are at Makerere University and others are becoming tailors or boda boda drivers or carpenters. They are supported by Dr. Phoebe Abe, and can become whatever they aspire to be.

Yesterday, I went to an Anglican church service at the same church as the wedding, Christ Church. It was in Acholi, but Winnie translated for us, and in the beginning, we stood up and introduced ourselves to the church. It was great... they all clapped and welcomed us. We were the only muzungos, white people, in the whole building. And if only every church service at home was so powerful! At the end there was a "fellowship" were people gathered around the musicians and danced. And did they really dance! The songs never seemed to end, and Erin and I had to stand by the door after awhile, we were so hot. We got great footage of the traditional instruments there too.

After church, we went to lunch at Bambu restaurant. There George explained to me the names of all of the instruments. The lukeme is the thumb piano. George claims that it originated in his home town. The adungu is the harp. There is a big one which is the mother, and little ones which are the children. The rigirigi is the violin, and it has one string. It is my favorite. Together, the instruments sound better than any Western arrangement could ever sound. I hope I can buy some and bring them home with me.

Sunday evening after a nap, we had a meeting with the elders. One man, Mzee Anamia Akera will be 93 years old in September and is the oldest living Acholi. Listening to them talk was awe-inspiring. We recorded them discussing the traditional justice system of mato oput. We were told that mato oput does not condone impunity, but restores lost human dignity. In simplest terms, it involves those involved confronting one another, restoring the broken relationships, forgiveness through truth-telling, and healing in hearts because guilt and disgrace is exposed and addressed. I believe I'm going to focus more on mato oput in my research, so hopefully I can offer a more comprehensive explanation at a later date.

They also explained to us about the propaganda about the war and how the West is so confused about the origins of the war. The war really began because someone touched an Acholi woman. And it began not with Kony, but between the Acholi and Museveni and his government. This too, I must investigate further. This is such a complex conflict. I hope to give it justice in the future.

Today Erin and I spent some more time with the Acholi Heart Beat girls Florence and Lilly and the head boy, Balaam. They are so friendly. We're going to Florence's house later this week.

So that's an update for what we've experienced so far.

I also have so much to talk about on Invisible Children, the defilement of women, and other aspects of the war. But, I must leave some stories for when I return home!

Thank you for taking the time to read this. And thanks to the University of Tennessee for putting Erin and I on the front page of the utk website. Haha, everyone keeps saying they can see our faces, but the page won't load here. I wonder what photo it is!

(Wedding dancer)

(Wedding dancer)


(Kids in the IDP camp)

HOLLY!!!!!!!!! THEY'RE PLAYING THE MAMBO SAWA SAWA SONG IN THE INTERNET CAFE!!!!!!!!